Day 20 – Returning Home

And now for some final words as we sit on a 747 heading home -

Travel, we feel, provides an excellent education on the world. No longer are certain places simply pictures in a book or places on a map. Now they include smells, sights, tastes, and feelings -both physical and emotional. Most significantly, travel is meeting people - people who wouldn’t trade their citizenship any more than we would ours. That’s a positive thing. We saw beautiful families really enjoying one another, and around numerous tables, the conversation always included our homes and various communities.

While Europe has an abundance of magnificent churches and cathedrals, it seems that they are becoming museums. As always, and perhaps now more than ever, people need the Lord.

We saw beautiful things and countrysides so lovely that at times I forgot to blink. Would I like to live in any of the places we saw? No, but thank you just the same. If we did, things would be so different. And you know what – we love our lives. Coming home to loving and supportive parents, to our dear children, a great son-in-law, and our little Gus, loving family and amazing friends – well, we wouldn’t trade them for anything or everything in this world!

Our heavenly Father, in His gracious sovereignty, has designed all of our lives to fulfill His perfect plan and purpose for our lives. When that includes travel, it might be to meet someone for a particular reason, or simply to appreciate His daily blessings in your own backyard. Whatever the reason might be for this wonderful opportunity we’ve just enjoyed, we are thankful. Thankful to God, from whom flows every good and perfect gift, and to our children, who encouraged us to go, did all of the planning, and told us to have a ball. We did! But there is no greater joy in the world than coming home to the people you love. That’s where we are today. Like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz said, “There’s no place like home,” as she returned to Kansas, we echo as we come home to what Holly wrote in her last entry in travel notes…Home to St. Louis – the best city on earth!

Day 19 – Goodbye Bath, Hello London

 At breakfast this morning, we met a new couple from Australia who were celebrating their 25^th anniversary. The family from Cork joined us and we all had a good time together. William had scheduled a taxi to arrive at 8:45 A.M. We were packed and ready to go! Our Irish driver took us on the short drive to the train depot where we had plenty of time to catch up on some writing. “Good bye, Bath and lovely English countryside!”

An hour and a half later we were in London learning very quickly how to use the tube. We took the Paddington line to the West Brompton exit, walked about a minute, and found the Sara Hotel/B&B.  We are in Earl’s Court district which looks like it was built in the middle 1800s. The street is just lovely! I can just imagine horse drawn carriages passing each other right in front of our window. The hotel, while not decorated to the period, is clean and basic.

We settled in our place and within half an hour, off we went again! With about 24 hours total time to spend in London, we had settled on a few things we wanted to do. After eating some sandwiches in a nearby park, we headed for the British Museum. It was free! The first thing we saw after passing into the Great Court was the Rosetta Stone! We followed Rick Steves’ abbreviated guide to the museum which guided us to the highlights. What a thrill it was to see Egyptian, Assyrian, and Ancient Greek exhibits along with the actual Elgin Marbles from the Parthenon. From the mummy of an old woman who was preserved so well that you could see her fingernails to recovered shipwreck treasure, and old clocks to wall carvings from Nineveh – this museum was magnificent!

From here, we began a walking tour (again, thank you, Rick!). Walking along White Hall Street, we saw Trafalgar Square with Lord Nelson bravely standing on top of a tall column and a huge ship in a bottle (which Gus would just love!). Then came St. Martin in the Fields Church, the Horse Guard, #10 Downing Street, the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben (which rang beautifully at 5:oo), Westminster Abby (already closed for the day but gearing up with press from around the world for the wedding), The London Eye, and the Waterloo Bridge. How’s that for covering some ground? We walked and walked. Bicycles zoom within inches of city busses and cars. It’s kind of crazy! We rode the Tube back to Earl’s Court and now we are resting before we have a simple dinner.  We are officially done!

Rosetta Stone

Egyptian Mummy

Trafalgar's Square

Big Ben & the House of Parliament

Day 18 – Cotswold Tour

We began our day by grabbing some fruit from the dining room for breakfast. Then we started our trek into town at 7:30 A.M. on a very foggy morning. In such a short time, we have come to really enjoy this walk by cottages, priories, parks, and views into distant green hills. We arrived at Bath Abbey in plenty of time, so we headed to a coffee shop.

As we approached our meeting spot, Ross spotted her first. Then I did. Yesterday on our walking tour, an elderly lady with hair that Ross labeled “flaming orange”, was there waiting for the Cotswold tour. And guess who came running up to greet us as soon as we approached? You guessed it! Before the tour van pulled up in about 7 minutes, we learned that her name was Pearl, she was from southern Israel, she and her husband were university professors, had traveled just about everywhere, thought the U.S. was absolutely beautiful, had both served in the Israeli army (it’s mandatory for every citizen for 2 years), and they had been to Stonehenge yesterday. I loved her already, orange and all!

Sixteen people gathered for the tour from Washington, Michigan, MISSOURI, Canada, Israel, Switzerland, and Taiwan. Amazing! Gary, our driver and tour guide was a middle–aged man and proved to be very knowledgeable of the Cotswold. The sun began to burn off the fog, holding the promise of a lovely spring day.

Off we went! I know I’ll need to be somewhat brief, but the Cotswold is like a fairy land. The word “quaint” should really be reserved for describing these villages nestled amongst grazing sheep, babbling brooks, slate roofed cottages, stone walls, lace curtained windows, flowers of every color, vines  and roses climbing ancient stone walls, and just pure loveliness! We walked through sheep pastures where the mother’s number (painted on her side with blue paint of some kind) matched her two little lambs, which romped around her or slept in the warm sunshine. Pairs of mallards paddled in crystal clear streams. We loved this tour! I took so many notes in my journal, but when we get home, I really would like to find a complete book on this area. Of all that we have seen, this area is my personal favorite! And here’s some good news – so much of it resembles Missouri, especially the scenery towards Augusta or Hermann! We completely enjoyed our lunch in an old pub in Stow-on–the-Wold, which consisted of a typical Sunday dinner of beef, potatoes, carrots, and a roll.

We arrived back to where we started at 5:15 P.M. and enjoyed some pasties. We ate them as we sat on a bench in a Bath square as we listened to a street musician play classical music on a guitar. We continued to walk a bit as we were waiting for a service to begin at 6:30 P.M. in the Abby.

We were greeted warmly, handed an Anglican Bible, and selected a seat in a pew close to the marble tombstone of James Montague, who was the Bishop of Bath and Wells from 1608 – 1616. A surprising number of people gathered as we began singing hymns, most of which we were unfamiliar. The sermon was delivered by a woman who had a very calm demeanor. She spoke from Luke 15: 1-11 on the Prodigal Son.

Our walk home through the village was nice and quiet as Ross and I discussed, between us, the impact of what we had just experienced in church. It was similar to the fog we walked through earlier in the morning. Nevertheless, it had truly been an awesome and enlightening day!

Sampling of photos from the Costwolds

Day 17 – Bath

We enjoyed a continental breakfast this morning with a young  Spanish couple living in Cork along with their 3 children. The food consisted of yogurt, stewed plums and currants, toast, croissants, fruit, fruit juice, tea, and coffee. Soon, two couples from different areas in England joined us. It was very interesting to hear how they feel about some things in their country.

Here’s a little of what they shared:

-  Most of them did not like Diana. They felt she really used the press to her own personal advantage.
- All of them agreed that she was murdered.

- All of them liked Camilla, though they don’t appreciate how she and Charles went about it. They feel that she is down to earth and makes Charles happy, unlike Diana, with whom he never appeared content.

- They believe that all of Great Britain is the most intensely  technologically surveiled country on earth. Some of their stories were pretty amazing.

We set off on our walk to Bath. It was a beautiful morning! Our first stop was the Royal Crescent. I stopped at the midpoint of the crescent when a man dressed in a finely tailored suit with brass buttons and tails greeted me. “Good morning, Madam. It’s a lovely day isn’t it.” “Yes, it is” I agreed.  I explained that I was so happy to be here and that I was a real Jane Austen fan and so thrilled to be able to see the Royal Crescent.” He continued, “ Then would you like to see the gardens in the back, Madam? They are quite lovely and please, have some coffee, if you like.” Would I? Passing through the main foyer and out the garden door, we were truly delighted by what we saw. Beautifully manicured grass along with gorgeous flowers and hedges combined to create a peaceful oasis. Ross attempted to take our picture together, with an outstretched arm, when the same man hurriedly approached us and said, “This will not do. Let me take your picture.” So, the picture you see of us in the garden was taken by this very kind man.

Up to this point in our trip we had only really window shopped, appreciating the varied items typical for each country. Not today folks! Today was a day for shopping in Bath. Prices are very reasonable here. So, after much consideration, I decided on a little glass coffee pot with a stainless steel filter and some vintage looking muffin cup papers. I’m really happy with them!

We visited the magnificent Bath Abbey. The original land was granted to the monks of St. Peter in 757 AD.  Edgar was crowned the first effective king of England here in 973. Some of the abbey walls are completely  composed of beautiful stained glass depicting various Old Testament stories and scenes from the life of Christ. We took so many pictures here – so we will never forget.

For lunch we headed for Seafoods Fish and Chips. Wonderful! Imagine a fluffy piece of cod with malted vinegar sprinkled on top along with a batch of crusty French fries. We stopped at a little store in Weston Village and bought some Cadbury Caramels. We’ll be back to the real world soon enough!

A closer look at the Royal Cresent

In the garden of the Royal Cresent Hotel

Inside the Bath Abbey

Outside view of the Bath Abbey

Day 16 – Arrival in London & journey to Bath

Our British Airways flight took a mere 2 hours.  The flight crew was so nice! However, our landing was a little rough, more like hitting the runway rather than landing on it. I asked Ross what he thought, to which he graciously replied, “He must be a navy pilot” (used to short runways on aircraft carriers).

Here’s some advice when it comes to sleeping in an airport – Don’t Do It! The Gatwick Airport is redoing their beautiful marble floors – at night. Trying to sleep was like trying to cat nap during the invasion at Pearl Harbor. At first it wasn’t too bad, but as everyone started in with their machines, it became much more of a challenge. The good thing was it was free, and when it was all said and done, we did sleep a little. Maybe it was when the workers took their coffee break.

So, with tickets in hand, we found platform, bound for Reading. Our train was due to leave at 7:58 AM, and guess what, it left EXACTLY at 7:58 AM. Unbelievable! Now for the moment I have personally been anticipating for a long time – the English countryside. One of the first things we saw was actually something synonymous with my sweet mom – a herd of Oreo cows (black in the front and hind quarters with white in their middle section – just like a cookie. Now if we could only spot a herd of fainting goats, Ellen would be thrilled!) I was not disappointed with the view. Everything was so green! Some of the fields were completely covered in bright yellow flowers that just glowed in the sunlight. Once we arrived in Reading, we had ten minutes to get on the train bound for Bath. That accomplished, off we whizzed, past cottages, grazing sheep, and rambling brooks.  Ahhh! The England I have always dreamed of! Then came the words “Next stop…Bath…Thank you.” What is it about that accent? The British could say something simple like “Campbell’s Chicken Noodle Soup” and it would sound like music.

We arrived at our Weston Lawn B&B by cab. Holly, bless her heart, had been contacted via e-mail by our first B&B that they had an emergency come up and had to cancel all reservations. She quickly found us another one before we even knew what the situation was, making all the necessary arrangements. When we arrived at Weston Lawn, we were delighted! Look at the pictures and you’ll see why. The original part of the house was built in 1760. Putting our bags by the door so we wouldn’t have to carry them around (part of those arrangements Holly made), off we set for the town. We passed by lovely Georgian homes with names like – Woodcote, Summerhill, Victoria Cottage, and Skunkcabbage (only kidding!). I held onto Ross with an iron grip for fear I’d trip because I was definitely not looking down! Then, we strolled through a botanical garden and Victoria Garden! What a way to get to town! Smaller settlements of cottages are scattered on the distant hillsides. Like Elizabeth Benton said in Pride and Prejudice, while standing on a boulder viewing The Peeks, “Beautiful!” That says it all.

For lunch, we stopped in a pasty shop. A pasty is a traditional food here which is made of a very thick pie crust folded in half and sealed, filled with a large variety of choices. We chose the steak and vegetable one. It’s really like carrying a stew in a sealed  pastry pocket. It was delicious!

Our first goal was to find  the courtyard between The Pump Room and The Bath Abby because that was the gathering spot for a tour of the town. Local men and women volunteer to guide free tours of Bath because they love it here and also because they take great delight in passing on its long and interesting history. Rick Steves recommended this in his guide book, and boy, was he ever right! Our guide took us to so many places and gave us so much information. The two hour walking tour was just fantastic!

On our way home, we stopped by Cromwell Pastys and this time selected a chicken and vegetable one. In fact, since it was almost closing time, they were running a 2 for 1 sale! They were piping hot so we waited until we were in front of the Royal Crescent before we began eating them. Yum!

When we got to our B&B, we were warmly welcomed by our hosts, William and Fiona Close. Our room is precious. What can I say? A room in Bath, a pot of tea, fresh flower in a vase – does it get any better than this? So, after our tea and showers, we plopped into a fluffy bed – never remembering  being so delightfully exhausted in our lives.

Front entrance to B&B

Floral coverage on one side yard of B&B

Eating our pastys

Enjoying the park in front of the Royal Cresent

Day 15 – Goodbye to Venice

We met some new travelers at breakfast this morning –a couple from Colorado and another couple from Chicago. Another couple, from Boston, returned home today. Matia, the guest house owner, said that he had a real difficult time understanding their English.  It was really funny hearing an Italian imitate a Boston accent!

Matia knew that our flight out of Venice didn’t leave until late in the evening. He very kindly came up to our room as we were about to check out, and said that we could leave our backpacks in our room for the day so that we wouldn’t have to lug them around town. Not only that, he told the maid not to clean our room so that we could use it if we wanted to come back and take an afternoon nap and rest before we left. We were very thankful to him for helping us out and for his immense hospitality.

So, off we headed for the Fish Market! This place is very similar to Soulard. The fruits and vegetables come in so many varieties and colors that it looks like a kaleidoscope! The fresh fish stands were in a nearby section. We saw everything from octopus and squid to little sardines and…well…things we had never seen before. Some people walked around holding their noses. Again, this was a sensory and cultural delight!

On our way back to our guest house, we stopped off for a slice of pizza and then headed up to our room to rest a little. Our internal clocks were about to be surprised because we are scheduled to arrive in London at 12:15 AM and not catch our train to Bath until 8:00 AM.

After sleeping for a little, we headed out for our last scoop of gelato before leaving at 6:30 to catch the water bus for Marco Polo Airport. Right on schedule, it pulled up to the dock at 7:00, we boarded, sat down, and away we went! We left a little early for the 40 minute ride to the airport because if we had left any later we wouldn’t have been able to see all the little islands and villas around Venice. The sun was slowly descending on the horizon in a dreamy haze, and in the distance, dark clouds were gathering. I think it will rain in Venice tonight. These water buses are really something in that they follow a regular route just like cars do on a road. The ride was really nice. Once we arrived at the airport, we began the 7 minute walk to the terminal. Since this isn’t an international airport, it is delightfully small and do-able.   We couldn’t check in for about an hour, so we did what we had to do – eat more pizza of course! Well we had to eat dinner didn’t we? And besides, we had some Euros left over that needed to be used before we left Italy. So, when you see us when we get back home, cut us a little slack would ya? It might take some time to take off a few pounds of ice-cream and pizza.

So, farewell beautiful Italy! We hope to see you again!

Housing along canal with Italian flag

Fish market area - just about anything you can think of that lives in the sea

Small fish, squid, & octopus

Shrimp and other interesting sea food

Day 14 – Another Day in Venice

We enjoyed breakfast this morning with a couple from Toronto and another couple from England. The host was there with us and gave us a brief history of this place plus some more recommendations on more things to do in Venice. Constructed in the early 1800s, this house is actually one of the newer buildings in town. I guess your perspective on what’s “new” changes when your city has been around for 1500 years. Anyway, this house was built on what used to a gondola construction site.

So, off we headed to St. Mark’s Square or The Piazza San Marco, as they say around here. This historic square, surrounded by beautiful buildings, is the size of two football fields (only Americans compare everything to the size of a football field. Nobody ever compares things to the size of a tennis court or a bowling alley, for example). The square is filled with music, tourists, and friendly pigeons. Especially in the evening, the plaza becomes a magnificent dance floor as various string quartets perform for couples twirling across ancient pavement. Napoleon once called the piazza “the most beautiful drawing room in Europe.” It is truly a highlight for us!

Then, it was off the Ca’ Rezzonico (Museum of 18^th century Venice). This palazzo, or palace, is on the Grand Canal and provides a great peak into the live of Venice’s rich and famous. It’s hard to believe that this was actually a family home! It was more like entering the St. Louis Art Museum and calling it “home” – can you imagine? Every room was spectacular and had a story to tell. From inlaid mother-of-pearl wooden furniture to ornately frescoed ceilings painted by Tiepolo, this palace revealed the immense wealth of Venetian aristocrats in the 1700s. A mere 50 years after the palace was completed, it began falling into disrepair because the family was gone with no one left to maintain it. Like God tells us, “Do not weary yourself to gain wealth, cease from your consideration of it. When you set your eyes on it, it is gone. For wealth certainly makes itself wings like an eagle that flies toward the heavens.” (NASB Proverbs 23:4-5)

On the way back, we stopped by a stand and got some gelato, which is really good ice-cream!

A word about Venice: There are about 60,000 residents in Venice today, half of what it was 30 years ago. Of those who stay, 25% are 65 or older. It would be difficult to raise a family here. Apartments are small and expensive (a  1,000 sq. ft. a studio apartment can cost up to a million dollars). The humidity and occasional flooding can make walking difficult. Home improvements require enormous amounts of red tape, following regulations intended to preserve the historical ambience. Everything is expensive because it has to be shipped in from the mainland. Basic things like grocery shopping can be tricky because it involves a lot of walking and stairs – imagine crossing over arched bridges while pushing a stroller and carrying groceries. It’s easy to see why people are leaving at a rate of a thousand a year. The economy itself is thriving, thanks to tourism and rich foreigners buying second homes here. But, sadly, even hopeful planners worry that in a few decades, Venice won’t be a city at all, but will become a museum or a cultural theme park. We hope not. We simply love Venice.

We had some delicious pizza for dinner tonight! Afterwards, although it was a little chilly, we enjoyed a long evening stroll along canals, dark and quiet alleys, and noisy pedestrian streets. From the smells of fresh fish to the aroma of baking pizza or pastries, Venice is a city that keeps you thankful for all of your God given senses!

St. Mark's Square - tower and part of cathedral

It is difficult to grasp the size of this square in a photo 

One of the many narrow canals

One of the many store fronts

A short section of the Grand Canal

An orchestra playing at St. Mark's Square early in the day

It was rather cold outside - not too many people sitting outside to eat and enjoy music

Looking down into a Gondola in service

Day 13 – Venice, Italy

Our alarm went off promptly at 5:30 AM and by 6:30 we were eating our last breakfast on the Splendour of the Seas. Because we carried our own luggage (backpacks), we were permitted to leave with the Express group. A large tour bus took us on a short ride to the bus stop where we got off ready to enter Venice. We had been to this beautiful city before (in 2004) and were pretty sure we could find our way around town. Holly had carefully written out specific instructions about how to get to our B&B by taking an Alilaguana (water bus), however, Ross thought we could save some money and walk. Do you all see where this story is going? Two hour, yes, two hours later we arrived at the green wooden door leading to the courtyard of our B&B at 3749 Ponte Chiodo. A nice Italian man welcomed us in, offered us something to drink, took off our backpacks, and immediately made us feel at home! He gave us a much needed map, some suggestions for eateries, answered some questions, and escorted us up a narrow marble staircase to our quaint room. He seemed a little stunned that that we had walked all the way we did. Normally the journey from the ship would only take about 20 minutes. Our window opens up to the courtyard and is just charming. After freshening up and connecting with the kids back home, we set off to explore the wonders of Venice.

It wasn’t long before we began to get really hungry. Instead of going to a café, we decided it would be fun to go to the grocery store. It really was fun shopping with the locals and seeing all the interesting things they have to offer. I imagine that a typical European would feel completely overwhelmed going to something like Dierbergs here in the States. There are just so many choices, even when it comes to selecting something simple, like a can of peaches. So, what did we select after all the delicious food we enjoyed on the cruise – a container of pineapple juice and a bag of Bastoncini cookies. We were so hungry that as soon as we got out on the street, we tore open the bag and began eating as we walked. We continued eating our cookies on the steps of an old monument when some pigeons approached us. I crumbled one of the cookies , gave it to them, and immediately, fellow pigeons came from out of the woodwork! I loved it! However, Ross would have none of that. He insisted that I stop feeding them as it made the birds selfish and mean toward each other. I countered that I hadn’t recalled seeing a “Don’t Feed the Pigeons” sign, and besides, this wasn’t the zoo! Well, a little girl started shooing the birds away when Ross said, “See, Lin, they don’t like pigeons around here.” Well, anyway, I’m sure those poor birds were conversing amongst themselves about the mean American pigeon hater. It was definitely time for a much needed nap.

We made dinner reservations at Al Timons for 7:30PM. When we arrived we could tell that it was definitely  very popular with the local crowd. People of all ages, from grandparents to small children, met and seemed to know each other. What a fantastic sense of community they enjoy! Why even their dogs, which are always welcome in restaurants here, seemed to be friends. The waiter kindly told us the daily specials and we decided on a steak for two. When he brought us our meal, we couldn’t believe our eyes! On a circular wooden platter, the size of a large pizza pan, sat a beautiful steak at least an inch thick, surrounded by roasted onions, roasted red and yellow peppers, roasted portabella mushrooms and cucumbers, and last but not least, the best roasted and seasoned potato slices we’ve ever had. We scarfed down the entire meal. The waiter seemed very pleased with our ability to consume his food. As we stepped outside, we heard thunder in the distance and a light rain began to fall. No more walking tonight!  We scurried back to our little place behind the green wooden door.

View from 3rd floor window overlooking B&B entrance

Travel is by boat - water taxis (very expensive) notice the fine wood grain

Gondolier with passengers

Even ambulance is by boat

Day 12 – Split, Croatia

Located on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Sea, Split is a gateway for exploring the coast and many islands of not only Croatia, but also Italy and Greece. We were told that this region is one of the sunniest places in Europe and today that sure proved to be true. It was truly a picture perfect day!

We ate breakfast and after a rather lengthy wait (2 hrs), we boarded our tender for Split. While we were waiting for our ride we met two sweet ladies from New Brunswick, Canada. They were thrilled that we enjoyed “Anne of Green Gables” so much! The scenery of P.E.I., Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick is exactly what we see in the movie. Winters are hard there, of course. Nevertheless, they don’t hunker down and wait for warmer days. Everyone either plays hockey, skis, or sleds – in other words, they have ways of enjoying the cold, cold winter!

Once we arrived in Split we went to the main sight, The Roman Palace. It was built by Emperor Diocletian in the 4^th century. In 295 AD, The Roman Emperor liked this area so much that he ordered a residence be built for his retirement. It took nearly 10 years to complete. He died there in 313 AD. Afterwards, Roman rulers continued to use his palace as a retreat. Split has experienced a rather complicated history, being under the control of the Venetians, Austrians, French – and eventually became a part of Yugoslavia in 1918. During WWII, The Italians were here until the city was liberated in 1944, and the country of Croatia was finally formed.

The Roman Palace is a maze of cobblestone streets, art galleries, cafes, small shops, and Gothic churches. We visited the Cathedral of St. Duje. Inside we saw the remains of the mausoleum of Diocletian. All over, there are beautiful frescoes, very tall pulpits, and ornate Romanesque carvings.

As we do everywhere – we walk and walk! Split, I believe, is the prettiest city we have seen so far. It is so very old, yet  so immaculately clean! No trash anywhere! The school children look and act much like American children –enjoying their friends and their cell phones. We wandered through the back streets and heard canaries sing their lovely songs from their cages. Old men gathered in small groups and talked and laughed on park benches, all seems safe and comfortable. Split is more mountainous than we had expected. I can see why some travelers we’ve met think that Croatia is one of the most beautiful countries in Europe!

Dinner tonight was extra special. We had started our packing before we headed down to eat – not looking forward to saying farewell to our new friends. Secretly, we all signed a card that Monica bought in town, wishing the newlyweds all the best. Then Connie, who sings in her church choir began to sing us all a song as a parting gift and as a birthday gift to Becky. In her lovely Irish brogue, she sang for all of us, right at our table, “Galloway Bay.” Can you picture the sweetness of this moment? She ended by singing “Whispering Words ”- a song sung in church many years ago. We’ll never forget it.

Inside Diocletian's Palace

Ross by bell tower and bishop statue

Linda by park flowers

Split city street



Day 11 – At Sea (to Split, Croatia)

We went to bed at around 1:30 AM and looking through our cabin window we saw the deep golden crescent moon hanging low in the horizon. Then, two bright lights, each with its own rhythm of glaring on and turning off, signaled that we passing lighthouses on the shores of Sicily. It was enchanting!

Sunday morning was glorious and sunny! After breakfast, we spent time in personal devotion and Bible study. It was a quiet day on the cruise ship.

Nevertheless, after lunch we watched a whole group of people from all over the world learn some dance moves by the swimming pool. How neat! There was a little old Asian couple, for example, doing the Y.M.C.A. and having the time of their lives! Music really is an international language.

In the afternoon, once again, we attended the class on the history, culture, and sights to see in our next port of call – this time it will be Split, Croatia. As always, he was informative and very enjoyable!

Tonight is dress night for dinner, so that’s what we’re preparing for now. The show will be a performance of the Rat Pack singers (Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., and we think Dean Martin). No doubt it will be great!

The long hallway to our cabin (Linda is half way there)

Centrum location on the ship (wireless Internet available here for a price)

Day 10 - Valletta, Malta

This morning we docked in Valletta, Malta! Located in the middle of the Mediterranean, it’s only 52 miles south of Sicily.

The weather was perfect for just strolling around the busy Saturday markets. The buildings are all constructed of native limestone rock which is actually sand-colored. This is the island where Paul, along with a whole ship full of prisoners, were ship wrecked. You can read the miraculous account of the ship wreck found in Acts 27. Chapter 28 of Acts tells the account of Paul on the Island of Malta. It was here that Paul survived a deadly venomous viper snake bite and where he healed the father of Publius. With this healing, many others sought out Paul to be cured of their diseases. Paul notes the hospitality and generosity of the citizens of Malta.

Later, Valletta was built to protect Christian pilgrims en route to the Holy Land and played other very important roles in history. I’ll bet traveling into a foreign territory must have been pretty scary back then. That’s where the Knights of the Order of St. John came in. In 1530, the Spanish king gave the whole island to the Order. After a bloody battle with the Turks, the Knights fortified this city. In more recent history, during WWII the island was considered a key in the battle for the Mediterranean and was exposed to months of bombing raids and blockades, leaving many of the inhabitants homeless and without food. More history occurred here than I could possibly write about in this short space, but it truly is fascinating and something I would like to research further when we get home.

We quickly found a little city park and enjoyed looking at all the plants blooming. Some men were playing an enthusiastic game of soccer – a favorite sport all over Europe. Continuing on our stroll, which I might add is always a little brisk with Ross as the leader, we came to the Upper Barrakka Gardens. These were originally the private gardens of the Italian Knights. Also, we saw Fort St. Elmo, a fortification located on a peninsula which was a strategic stronghold for the Knights against the Turks in the 16^th century. Today, it is home to the Malta Police Academy.

The population is overwhelmingly Catholic. Shrines to Mary are everywhere and are enhanced with large sconce covered light bulbs and flowers in little vases. They are all preparing for Easter as signs are posted displaying the times of local passion plays and concerts. Bakeries and candy stores in ancient buildings display their delicious goods in the shop windows – little chicks, bunnies, brightly colored eggs, and pastel colored icing sweet cakes.

Right on the side of the street a circular structure resembling a closed in gazebo held the most lovely flowers, plants, and little animals. We saw the tiniest turtles ever, along with bunnies and parakeets. The turtles reminded of the kind you use to be able to win at carnivals, and then you could buy little, plastic, island homes for them to live in – and with their own private palm tree I might add. They’re outlawed now because of salmonella , but I know my brother and I really enjoyed ours in the good ol’ days!

Tonight’s show featured ballroom dancing. Should I repeat myself once again and say how great they were? Well, they were! Their costumes were especially beautiful!

But wait –there’s more! Tonight at midnight we’ll be enjoying a chocolate buffet. Who could ask for anything more?

Linda at Valletta park - notice the time on the clock

Round-about at the peak of Valletta

Busy main street of Valletta

Outside St. John's Church

Day 9 – At Sea (toward Malta Island)

We are experiencing the calmest waters since we left Portugal. The temperatures are in the 60s and the winds are only about 11 mph. Looking out our window this morning we saw the coast of Algiers. Wow!

Ross was finally able to climb the rock wall today (2 times)! I didn’t get any pictures, but no doubt he’ll be doing it again. It was a delightfully relaxing morning. We were able to spend a great deal of time just reading (I’m enjoying John MacArthur’s new book, Slave. Ross is reading his commentary on Ephesians). Unfortunately, Ross was unable to make internet connections because the satellite was down, which is why yesterday’s update was late.

We attended another class, led by the same California professor, on the history of Malta and the things we’ll want to see and do once we arrive. He has such a marvelous way of explaining the long and complex history of a country. For example, he even tied in the significance of the movie, The Maltese Falcon, in his talk. We feel pretty prepared for our time in Valletta, Malta, tomorrow!

Salmon for dinner tonight! The food is just so good! We couldn’t possibly eat everything offered, but it’s been fun trying. Since we arrived on board we haven’t taken the elevator.  So, several times a day we’re hiking up about 6 flights of stairs several times a day – that accounts for some burned calories doesn’t it?

Below is a picture of our wonderful dinner party. They are, from left to right: P.J. and Connie (west coast of Ireland), Monica and John (east coast of Ireland), Becky and Chris (newlyweds from Toledo), us, and Mary and Joe (west coast of Ireland).

The show tonight featured a young woman from England. What a voice! She received a well deserved standing ovation. It’s kind of funny, but she was supposed to join the ship in Gibraltar and she began by telling us that she was there and we weren’t (remember that we couldn’t dock because of the sea conditions). That meant that she had to rent a car and drive all the way to Cartagena, driving from the opposite side of the car on the opposite side of the road (from what she was used to in the UK )using a Spanish GPS. What a trooper!

Our dinner table

42nd Street Theater before the show

Day 8 – Cartagena, Spain

Cartagena is a historic port city on the southeast Mediterranean coast of the Iberian Peninsula. Ships of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Moors, Barbary Coast pirates, the Spanish Armada, France and Britain all docked right here! It’s been the Mediterranean home of the Spanish navy since the 1500s. I guess calling Cartagena historic is an understatement!

The first thing we saw after leaving the pier was this amazing sea wall. It was built in the 1700s at the direction of King Carlos III. Then we came across a small park with some beautiful trees which had enormous branches perfectly made to support a tree house. Next was a Spanish classic,

The Plaza de Toros (The Bull Ring). Constructed in the 1850s, it actually sits on top of a Roman gladiator arena. We could see the entrance through which they entered. Although bull fights and gladiators are not my thing at all, we both appreciated the site.

Climbing up a long stone path, we found ourselves at Torres Park, which overlooks the city and harbor.

Flowers were in bloom! As we descended the path what should we see but two gorgeous peacocks all posed and ready for us to take their picture! The funny call they make is positive evidence that God, indeed, does have a great sense of humor.

A major archaeological site in the city is the Roman Theater. It was buried for nearly 2,000 years until it was finally discovered in 1987. It held Billy Graham size crowds – 6,000 people.

We strolled with the locals through the quaint and busy Plaza del Ayuntamiento and loved the cozy shops and cafes lining the street. Here, you are welcomed to feast on squid or octopus sandwiches! Boats, all pure white with bright blue accents, park like school buses in the harbor as sea gulls sing and soar overhead in the ocean breeze.

When we got back to the ship, Ross immediately changed into his running clothes and off we went to the track on the top deck. Most of the people were still on shore, so he didn’t have to worry about running over any little old ladies. Wouldn’t that have made a terrible tale to tell?

Dinner was fantastic! P.J. told us all about the I.R.A. and how they were really just a mob of terrorists. He is horrified by so much of Ireland’s recent history but is very proud to be Irish! At 70 years old, he appears to be as fit as a fiddle and glowing with happiness.

Craig Halladay played his crystal studded violin tonight at the evening show and really wowed the crowd! He was truly wonderful and played along with an orchestra that complimented his music beautifully. Tonight was a real treat!

Unique trees in Cartegena park

City overlook

Roman Theater

Ross getting exercise



Day 7 – Gibraltar – well, almost!

What a wild ride the ship had last night! Ross and I were watching the very large swells from our window and could feel the shudder from the pounding of the waves. W e loved the experience! With the ship being as long as it is, it spans the waves mostly, but consider the little vessels of the early explorers and Pilgrims riding up and down the waves!

So, we woke up to the Rock of Gibraltar! It was enchanting to see in the early morning mist. Just from our window alone we could count 14 ships - we were the only cruise ship. At breakfast the captain announced over the PA system that no one would be allowed to disembark today because of the sea conditions. No one moaned or complained. All announcements are given in English, German, French, and Portuguese – everyone seemed to understand the situation. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a peaceful time in the harbor most of the day soaking up the rays, reading, listening to some fantastic musicians, and catching up on some rest. I guess we’ll have to wait for another time to see the famous Barbary monkeys and the Rock of Gibraltar. Maybe it’s just as well that we didn’t. They are apparently quite aggressive and have been known to steal purses, wallets, anything shiny and even pluck an eyeball (Ross added) – the little varmints. Winston Churchill declared long ago that as long as the Barbary monkeys remained in Gibraltar, the British would remain in Gibraltar. Well, they are still here, and so are the British – who feed them!

Tonight for dinner Ross and I both had roasted lamb with mint jelly! Yum!!! Every night, John, the little Irish man, gives me a history lesson from his county of Tipperary. Tonight he revealed President Obama’s Irish descent and how he plans on visiting his ancestral home when he visits later on this month. I commented that he certainly didn’t look like an Irish man. Of course, I don’t think I look very Irish either. Becky and Chris showed us some of their wedding pictures! They were married at the Toledo Zoo and did some wonderfully creative things like having merry –go-round rides for the reception and the train providing transportation to and from the wedding site. Dinner always seems to end too soon for all of us!

The show tonight was a tribute to the movies. The high energy singing and dancing were just marvelous! This entertainment and the music from the different venues around the ship always complete these delightful days at sea.

Backside of Rock of Gibraltar

(We were at dinner when we rounded the point to the other side)



Day 6 – At Sea (Atlantic Ocean)

We slept wonderfully last night! Sleeping at sea is like being rocked in a cradle. So after a quick shower, we headed down to the King and I Restaurant for breakfast. We met new traveling companions from Germany, Denmark, and Tasmania.  Cruise ships quickly become a floating community and its nice beginning to be able to recognize familiar faces. This is how the meals work. For breakfast and lunch, you can either go to the restaurant or to one of the cafes. At the restaurants you order from a nice menu and are really taken care of by a team of waiters. At the cafes there is a typical bill of fare which consists of a pasta buffet, salad bar, hamburger/hotdog bar, rolls with meats and cheeses, hot food buffet – including chicken, ethnic foods, etc., and the dessert bar! For these 2 meals you can choose to sit as a couple or be with an unplanned mix of travelers. However, for dinner, you sit with the same people for the duration of the cruise. As I said yesterday, we are with a great dinner group!

We’ve been rocking and rolling at sea today. The swells outside our window are pretty huge! Traveling between 20-30 mph with about 30 mph winds create quite a ride! Ross explored the top deck just a bit ago while I wrote in my journal and came back saying that he was almost blown down – not off – just down! White caps surround the ship making for some beautiful scenery.

We attended a lecture this afternoon titled “Gibraltar – Solid as a Rock” given by a retired professor from California. He did a great job explaining the extensive history of Gibraltar and how everybody from the Phoenicians to the Germans in WWII battled over ownership of this strategic location. It’s been in British hands since 1713, so maybe everyone has finally agreed that they can keep it. We are really looking forward to tomorrow when we can see it for ourselves!

Another Irish couple, John and Monica, joined our happy group this evening. We all had another wonderful dinner together and discussed everything from WWI to golf. John is actually from Tipperary (as in “It’s a Long Way to Tipperary”). The three Irish gentlemen all have such rosy cheek – probably from those sunny days spent out on the golf course. They are as interested in our American lives as we are in theirs.

Tonight the show was called “All You Need is Beatles.” Ross and I are not necessarily Beatle fans, but these four guys were fantastic! They not only matched their singing style, they also replicated their mannerisms. Several people in the audience were transported back to the 60s as they swayed and danced to the music. I remember being a little frightened of the Beatles when I was a little girl. We enjoyed the show very much.

Tomorrow – Gibraltar!

Linda with dog made of towels

Ross & Linda back from dress dinner



Day 5 – Adeus to Portugal

Here’s what Rick Steves says about Lisbon:

Lisbon is a ramshackle but charming mix of now and then. Vintage trolleys shiver up and down hills, bird-stained statues mark grand squares, taxis rattle and screech through cobbled lanes, and well-worn people sip coffee in Art Nouveau cafes. It’s a city of faded ironwork balconies, multicolored tiles, and TV antennas. Men in suits and billed caps talk on side streets.

We quite agree. This is the Lisbon we observed, enjoyed, and appreciated!

So we packed our backpacks, said “Good –bye” to the man at the front desk and began our long walk to the port at around 11:00. We took it slow because we had plenty of time and because we paused in any kind of shade in order to protect Ross’ head. Even though we were instructed not to arrive before 3:oo, by the time we got there at 12:30, they let early birds check in and board the ship! They even provide lunch for us.

Our cabin is beautiful and spacious. A large window is above our bed – we love that! The style of the interior of the ship is very classic (honey – toned maple wood, Roman statues, gold accents, classical music – you get the idea).

At 5:oo we had the muster. At 5:30, Ross signed up for rock climbing. At 5:45, the band started playing, people started dancing, and at 6:10 we headed out to sea. Dinner began at 6:30. We were placed at a table set for 10. A couple from Ohio, Chris and Becky, soon arrived. They were just married this past Saturday! Then, two couples, P.J. and Connie, and Joe and Mary, from the west coast of Ireland, soon followed. What a great time we had! Another couple from Sweden sat at our table, and the lady was promptly bumped into by a serving cart. She decided they had better find a safer table, so off they went. Dinner is going to be a hoot for the next week – that’s for sure! We thank God for His Divine providence – He truly is good – all the time!

Ship - Splendor of the Seas

Our stateroom (or cabin)

Another look at our cabin

Top Deck - Lisbon in the background